EPL Appliance Repairs is a professional centre for repair and maintenance of all Domestic Brands of Fridges and Freezers including Top Mount, Bottom Mount, French Door and Side by Side. Our technicians fix and service all Fridge and Freezer Brands such as Westinghouse, BOSCH, Samsung, LG, Electrolux, Fisher & Pykel, Hoover, Simpson, Whirlpool and etc.
EPL appliance repairs are experienced with modern technology in repairing all different types of refrigerators in the market such as Samsung, LG, Bosch, Simpson, Electrolux, Amana, Whirlpool, Fisher & Paykel, May tag, Philips, GE, Kelvinator, Hoover, Westinghouse, Jenn-Air and all other brands.
Our skilled and professional technicians have enough experience and knowledge to know which part of fridge doesn’t work properly and will repair or replace it.
We provide refrigerator repair Services for different types of domestic and freezers in the Sydney area including: Sydney CBD, Northern Beaches, North Shore, Easter Suburbs, Hills District, South-Eastern Sydney, Southern Sydney, Western Sydney, Inner West, South-Western Sydney.
Common Problems
Just like other machines and appliances, you may also experience problems with your fridge and freezer. For example, what happens when you fridge won’t cool. This can be a problem especially if you want to stock your items in your fridge. Apart from that, this would also mean additional costs since it will take too long for any item to cool.
There are other common problems that you may also experience:
1. Does not run, no light in refrigerator
No power – AC outlet defective or open circuit
Service cord defective – Transfer to electrician
2. Does not run, light in refrigerator works
Temperature control defective
Defrost timer defective
Start relay defective
Compressor failure
3. Does not run for period of time after defrost
Defrost terminator defective
Defrost timer defective
4. Runs continuously with no cooling
Loss of refrigerant charge
Insufficient compressor
5. Runs continuously, unit too cold
Temperature control defective
Temperature control out of adjustment
6. Runs excessively, freezer & refrigerator not cold enough
Evaporator fan defective
Defrost timer defective
Sealed system problem
Compressor failure
Condenser fan defective
Dirty condenser
7. Runs & cycles, refrigerator normal,freezer not cold enough
Poor door seal on freezer – adjust
Light stays on in freezer
Switch defective
Excessive door openings
Room temperature to cold
Too much warm food placed in freezer at one time
8. Refrigerator normal, but sweating
Interior – Bad door seals
Exterior - Void in insulation, - Bad door seals, - Heater defective in door channel
9. Excessively noisy
Unit not level
Internal compressor problem
Condenser fan defective
Evaporator fan defective
Defrost water pan rattles
10. Water leaking inside refrigerator
Restriction in drain system
WESTINGHOUSE Virtuoso ELECTRONICS
With the introduction of ‘V’-series, top of the range cabinets will be fitted with a Westinghouse Virtuoso
Electronic control. This consists of a Control Board, Display Panel and Two Sensors. Functionally this
replaces the thermostat and defrost timer and provides some extra features.
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DESCRIPTION OF CONTROL AND OPERATION
COMPONENTS
The electronic control consists of the following parts-
Control board located in the machine compartment.
Display Panel recessed into the top centre of the food compartment door.
Two sensors, (wired into the cabinet harness) one in the fresh food compartment and one in the
freezer compartment.
The Control Board houses the transformer, 3 relays (compressor, fan and defrost heater) and input
circuitry to monitor when the door/defrost heater is open/on and for how long. A processor controls the
timing on some of the functions such as the door alarm and also communication between the Control
Board and Display Panel.
The Display Panel consists of a LCD Display with blue backlighting and seven push buttons. A
processor controls the LCD segments and also communication between the Display Panel and Control
Board.
The sensors are negative temperature coefficient silicon devices encapsulated in a PVC tube sealed with
epoxy resin. Typical resistance at 25°C is 5000 ohms, at 0°C is 16325 ohms and at -25°C is 65200 ohms.
OPERATIONAL SUMMARY
The system operates under software control from direct current inputs from sensors located in the freezer
and fresh food compartments.
The fresh food compartment is supplied with cold air from the freezer compartment by a fan located in
the freezer compartment. The flow of air to the fresh food compartment is controlled by a motorised
baffle that is either fully open or fully closed. This baffle takes 12 seconds to open or close.The baffle is
located in the rear control housing at the air outlet of the freezer.
When the freezer compartment is too warm, the compressor is turned on (by the freezer sensor signal)
together with the fan. The fan draws refrigerated air (dry, sub-zero air) from a finned evaporator coil.
When the fresh food compartment is too warm, the baffle in the rear control housing is opened.
Depending on which cycle the refrigerator is in (On or Off) depends on which of the following will
occur :-
• If the freezer fan and compressor are on, the cold air will flow from the freezer into the food
compartment.
• If the freezer fan and compressor are off, the temperature of the food compartment must rise another
2ºC before the freezer fan motor is activated. The compressor will not switch on until the freezer
sensor reaches its set point.
For each half hour of a 24 hour period, the amount of time the door is open for the half hour is recorded.
This is compared with three previous values and the three maximums out of the four values are kept.
This procedure is repeated for the 24 hour period until the three daily maximums have been recorded
(Basically trying to match breakfast, lunch and tea).
The next day each half hour maxima is preceded by an extra cooling period that tries to reduce the
freezer compartment air temperature to 3°C below the set point. A 30 minute time limit applies. This
provides extra capacity for the expected door opening period.
The same three maximums are also used to try and prevent defrosts from occurring during those times of
maximum door opening, provided a minimum run time is met. After each defrost the compressor run
time for the next period is set to one of seven values between 6 and 16.5 hours based on
the heater on time of that defrost. If during the next period there are door openings the run time is
reduced in six stages to compensate for the extra moisture load.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
When the cabinet is first switched on (or after a power failure) all counters are reset to zero on the
Control Board and then initial conditions are set. (The Display Panel holds its memory for 90 seconds so
that if the power interuption is less than 90 seconds the Display Panel memory will be re communicated
back to the Control Board. This memory only covers functions such as Quick Freeze, Temperatures,
Clock Time, Holiday Mode & Drinks Chill. The main functions memory on the Control Board will be
lost.) The compressor should then run continuously until the set air temperature of the freezer
compartment sensor is reached and the baffle will remain open until the set air temperature of the fresh
food compartment sensor is reached. The compartments will then cycle about the set air temperatures.
When 1 hour 40 minutes has elapsed a defrost will occur (required because the electronics retains no
memory during a power failure, this stops the possibility of extended run time between defrosts causing
excessive ice build-up), the compressor run time to the next defrost is now set and the cabinet is now in
its normal operational state.
Defrost Timing: On the Electronic models defrost timing is 6 to 22 hours of compressor run time,
followed by 10 minutes of fan run only. During this 10 minute period the damper is open to drop cold air
from the freezer into the food compartment. This warms up the temperature of the evaporator and
decreases the length of defrost time.This is followed by the lesser of a 35 minute defrost period or heater
on time plus 4 minutes drip time. The heater on time is determined by the defrost termination thermostat
(DTT). The defrost heater on time is sensed through the defrost heater and the DTT. The fan is delayed
from starting for 5 minutes after defrosting (after drip time), to allow the refrigeration system to pull
down to temperature, but must start when cabinet is first turned on.
System Equalisation
: The compressor off cycle will never be less than 6 minutes duration even if the
freezer sensor is warmed up manually or the wiring short circuited. This allows the system pressures to
equalise so the compressor starts under no load.
Failure Mode
: The compressor and fan motor relays are wired in their normally closed positions, this
means that if 240V AC is supplied to the power board but the control board is not functioning then the
compressor and fan will run continuously. This allows the customer time to call for service.
The 24 hour period for the 3 daily door opening maximums starts from when the cabinet is first switched
on. The door openings are sensed through the fresh food compartment door only via the light switch. If
the light bulb fails door openings are still sensed. If the light switch fails on the electronics will default
to 6 hours of run time between defrosts. If the light switch fails off the time between defrosts will be set
by heater on time only and may cause defrost problems if there are large numbers of door openings.
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THERMAL FUSE
On the Electronic models defrost timing is 6 to 22 hours of compressor run time, followed by 10 minutes
of fan run only. During this 10 minute period the damper is open to drop cold air from the freezer into
the food compartment. This warms up the temperature of the evaporator and decreases the length of
defrost time.This is followed by the lesser of a 35 minute defrost period or heater on time plus 4 minutes
drip time. The heater on time is determined by the defrost termination thermostat (DTT). The defrost
heater on time is sensed through the defrost heater and the DTT. The fan is delayed from starting for 5
minutes after defrosting (after drip time), to allow the refrigeration system to pull down to temperature,
but must start when cabinet is first turned on.
If the Heater Relay on the Control Board or the D.T.T. fails the circuitry relies on the Thermal Fuse to
safeguard the refrigerator, therefore it is ESSENTIAL that the Thermal Fuse is always replaced if it
fails.
IF THE DTT IS OPEN CIRCUIT
The DTT can be open circuit for two reasons:-
It is faulty.
It is warm (The refrigerator has been switched off or just completed a defrost)
To overcome this, the DTT can be shorted out by carrying out the following. Switch off the
power, remove the service cord. Place an insulated wire loop in the LH socket of the control
box (See diagram). Replace the service cord and switch on the power, run the diagnostics.
Do not forget to remove the wire loop when you have completed the diagnostics.
IF “SEn” IS DISPLAYED
This will usually appear if the “run test” loopback connector has been left in place during factory
testing. This connector can be found connected to the control board in the machine compartment,
see diagram below.
With the connector in place, on switch on at the customers’ house the refrigerator will run through
a preset sequence over a period of 45 minutes. Most of the time, the display will read “SEn” with
the actual food and freezer temperatures displayed also. At the end of the 45 minutes, the
refrigerator will revert to normal operation. So, if there is a service call where the customer says
the display says “SEn”, and the buttons do not change the display.
Advise the customer that they can either:
Switch off the refrigerator and remove the loopback cable (See diagram above) by pulling on the
white and orange twisted wires, (There is no clip on the connector). Switch the refrigerator on.
Or
Tell them that the refrigerator will go to normal operation after 45 minutes.
It should be noted that with the connector fitted, every time the refrigerators’ power is switched off
and on, the above sequence will be repeated.
This also means the refrigerator will not go into Diagnostics with the connector fitted.
Loopback cable and
connector with two white
and one orange wire
twisted. Approximately
30cm long.
TOP HINGE WIRING
The top hinge wiring is as follows:
Red +5v dc
Black 0v dc
Orange Display Signal
Grey Spare
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TO REMOVE/REPLACE DOOR HANDLE COVER
To remove the handle cover, grip the rear of the cover near the gasket. Pull the cover towards
the front of the door in an arc.
To fit the cover, locate the clips on the cover into the recesses in the front of the door handle.
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Hinge the cover towards the gasket and snap over the handle.
TO REMOVE/REPLACE DOOR GASKETS
To remove the door gasket, start in one of the corners and pull perpendicular to the inner door
panel. Once it is released from the corner it can then be peeled off the remainder of the door.
To fit a gasket, start by pressing it into the corners first.
With the gasket fitted into the corners, move around the door pressing the gasket into the
inner panel groove using your thumbs.
TO REMOVE/REPLACE ELECTRONIC DISPLAY/FACIA
DISPLAY
Before performing the following, ensure that power is removed from the cabinet by switching off
the mains supply and disconnecting the service cord from the power outlet. Move the cabinet to a
position, which will allow easy access to the machine compartment and food compartment door.
Discharge any static electricity that you may be carrying by touching any exposed metal part of the
cabinet. (Note that even though the service plug is removed it is important to touch the cabinet
before continuing). The facia on the food compartment door display, (the facia carries the
Westinghouse logo and the word virtuoso) needs to be removed. This can be done, by using a firm
but non-abrasive object, so not to damage the door surface (a plastic ice-scraper works well). Push
vertically up on the under-side of the facia.
With pressure applied, the Facia will bow disengaging its bottom clips from the Electronic Board.
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Remove the bevelled edge off an ice
scraper to produce a tool for removing
the Facia Display
Hinge the Facia upwards to remove.
Once the facia is removed, you should see the two screws which hold the display in
place. Remove and retain these two screws
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Pull the Electronic Board out from the bottom, then down from the top to remove from the
cover locating clips.
Disconnect the cable from the display board. From the front view, the cable should enter
the foam pocket from the right and be long enough to pass across to the left hand side of
the pocket. The new display will have its connector on the right hand side (the old board
had it on the left), so there will be excessive cable which needs to be bundled as tightly
as possible (coiled) such that it does not travel across the back of the display once
installed. The important thing here is that the cable must be situated such that the new
board will fit back into the pocket. Connect the cable to the new board and fit the board
back into the pocket in the food compartment door. Replace the screws that were
removed previously. Replace the facia by fitting the tabs at the top of the facia first, then
push below and above the display buttons. Note that once the facia is fitted it may be
necessary to ensure that the buttons are not being depressed by the facia. To do this, run
your finger along each button to ensure that they sit just above the surface of the facia.
REMOVE/ REPLACE CONTROL BOARD
Before performing the following, ensure that the power is removed from the cabinet by switching
off the mains supply and disconnecting the service cord from the power outlet. Move the cabinet to
a position, which will allow easy access to the machine compartment. Discharge any static
electricity that you may be carrying by touching any exposed metal part of the cabinet. (Note that
even though the service plug is removed it is important to touch the cabinet before continuing).
From the rear of the cabinet, the control electronics is located at the bottom, in the machine
compartment on the left hand side. Remove and retain the two screws which secure the electronics
box to the cabinet. There is a metal tab in the side of the box which fits into the side of the wall
and there may be an adhesive strip along the side of the box. If the adhesive strip is present, it will
take some effort to remove the box. Once the box is removed, disconnect the five connectors from
the box. Four of the connectors pull off once their latch is depressed. (The main power connector
has an under-latch, as does the flying lead from this connector to a two-pin connector directly to
the box. The two long connectors have over-latches) The remaining three pin connector which
attaches to a hole in the box itself can be removed by pinching the clips on the outside of the box
at each side of the connector and pushing it INTO the box. Note that a significant inclusion to the
new control box is an earth wire, connected to the box itself. Be sure that this earth lead is not
tangled or hidden during installation. Once all the cables are disconnected, take the new control
box and connect each of the cables. Install the 3 pin connector into the metal box first, followed by
the other long connectors. Then connect the square power connector and finally the two pin
connector on the flying lead. You MAY remove the cover on the adhesive strip that runs along the
side of the new box, though the adhesive strip is no longer necessary since a hook has been
included in the metal tab. While positioning the new controller, be sure that the three coloured
cables are routed out of the top of the box, and the two grey cables are routed out the bottom of the
box. Slide the metal tab into the slot on the wall of the compartment and position the two holes in
the box over the existing screw holes in the back of the compartment. Reuse the two screws to
secure the metal box. The final step in the installation is to fasten the earth lead to the baseplate.
You will notice that there are already earth leads connected to the baseplate at a raised tab. DO
NOT REMOVE ANY OF THESE CONNECTIONS. There is an additional hole in the baseplate
to the left of the raised earth tab on the flat part of the baseplate. Using an appropriate screw and
star washer, connect the lug on the end of the earth lead to the baseplate at this additional hole.
Installation is now complete and the system can be tested. Reconnect the cabinet service cord to
the power-point and switch it on.
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TO REMOVE/REPLACE EVAPORATOR COVER
(Gives access to Fan Motor/Blade, Evaporator, Defrost Heater, Thermal Fuse, Defrost Termination
Thermostat, Freezer Sensor & Drain Trough)
To remove the evaporator cover, use a hooked tool similar to the one in the drawing below
Two plug buttons covering the screws can be removed with a flat bladed screwdriver
Carefully warming up the evaporator cover with a hair dryer will make it pliable for removal.
Place the hooked tool pointing downwards into the bottom corners of the louvres (as indicated
by the arrows). Pull on the tool until the clips on the rear of the cover disengage to the extent
that the cover is removable by hand.
To refit, position the evaporator cover into the rear of the freezer and push firmly to lock the
clips into place.
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TO REMOVE/REPLACE REAR CONTROL HOUSING
(Gives access to Automatic Damper, Feature Lighting Harness & Food Compartment Sensor)
Remove the screw from the bottom of the housing.
Pull the rear housing forward at the bottom in a hinging motion to disengage it from the top
housing.
(Take care a wiring harness is connected and the food compartment sensor located at the top RH
rear of this housing)
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Unplug the connector and remove the sensor and sensor mount. The sensor is wired into the
cabinet harness. When refitting the senor and sensor mount, it is advisable to tape the sensor
to the mount for easier assembly into the control housing. (Do not tape over the sensor itself).
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Remove the housing.
To access the auto damper, either remove the gasket, or slit it at the points indicated by the
arrows. The insulation block can then be hinged back to access the damper. When re assembling,
the
gasket must be replaced or resealed at the slits.
To gain access to the harness feature lighting, squeeze the two tabs on the rear of the control panel
to release the insulation. Remove the insulation.
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TO REMOVE/REPLACE TOP CONTROL HOUSING
Remove the Rear Control Housing first. (Refer pages 33 & 34)
Push the control housing to the rear to disengage from the two supports at the front of the
cabinet.
Once the control housing is disengaged, pull down and forward. Take care a wiring harness is
connected. Care should also be taken pulling the drain spout out of the drain tube.
Unplug the connector.
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TO ACCESS THE PRE COOLER AND DEFROST TRAY
Tilt the refrigerator backwards and support. The pre cooler and defrost tray should be visible on
the underside of the cabinet. Unclip the three clips on the LH and RH pre cooler brackets. Ease
the pre cooler downwards to access both the pre cooler and defrost tray.
TO REMOVE/REPLACE LIGHT LENS
(Gives access to lamp)
Press on the light lens catch to release.
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INSTALLATION
CLEARANCES AROUND THE REFRIGERATOR
Recommended minimum clearances are :
• 3cm on each side.
• 9cm above the refrigerator.
• 5cm below the refrigerator.
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The refrigerator should arrive with the front adjustable rollers wound down to tilt the top of the
refrigerator backwards by about 10-15mm from the upright. The stability foot should also be
wound fully up so it will not interfere with the operation of the rollers.
WARNING: The rollers are designed for forward and backward movement only. They are
not castors. Moving the refrigerator sideways may cause damage to the floor and rollers.
• Roll the refrigerator into its final position.
• The top of the refrigerator should be tilted back by approximately 10-15mm. This will allow
the doors to self-close providing a consistent door seal. It is normal for the freezer door to
momentarily open and reclose when the food compartment door is closed firmly. If the freezer
door stays open you will need to tilt the refrigerator backwards a little further.
• If the refrigerator is not tilted back, you can adjust the two front rollers by turning the large
plastic roller nut. This will increase the height of the rollers. One turn of the nut will tilt the
refrigerator back approximately 10mm. If you have difficulty turning the roller nut you can
have someone tilt the refrigerator back, so that you have better access. Alternatively, you can
access the rollers from the side, using a flat screwdriver to help you turn the nut.
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• Check the alignment of the refrigerator to the surrounding cupboards. The top of the
refrigerator should be level from side to side. If you need to adjust the level, use the adjustable
ll
• If the refrigerator now rocks from one corner to the opposite rear corner, this means that the
floor is uneven, you will need to put some packing under one of the rear rollers. You could use
thin pieces of solid material, such as thin board, vinyl floor tiles or laminate. Place the packing
so that it will sit under one of the rear rollers when the refrigerator is rolled into position.
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When you have the refrigerator in its final position wind the stabilising foot down until it just makes
contact with the floor. When you need to move the refrigerator, be sure to wind the foot back up
so that the refrigerator can roll freely.
Stabilising foot wound down.
CARE & USE INFORMATION FOR STAINLESS STEEL
To keep your stainless refrigerator looking at its best, you should clean it regularly. You clean
the stainless steel doors with luke-warm soapy water and a soft cloth, rinsing with clean water
and then wiping with a lint- free cloth.
To give your stainless refrigerator a renewed look, apply a light coat of white oil (e.g. Castrol
White Oil) with a lint free cloth. It is important to wipe in the direction of the grain of the
stainless steel to avoid undue marking of the surface.
DO NOT USE ABRASIVE PADS OR OTHER CLEANERS AS THEY ARE LIKELY
TO SCRATCH THE SURFACE.
You should only use the stainless steel cleaners where the stainless steel is extremely dirty or
discoloured. The manufacturers instructions for the stainless steel cleaners should always be
followed. If you use stainless steel cleaners or white oil, keep them out of contact with
moulded plastic components, handles, nameplates, door gaskets and the interior of the
refrigerator. The cleaners may damage these components. The refrigerator warranty will not
cover damage caused by these cleaners.
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AIRFLOW DIAGRAM
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CHANGES TO THE FAN SHROUD AREA
To eliminate poor air circulation and noise associated with the fan/fan shroud, check the following:
Foam tape is attached to the Fan Motor wires.
Fan Motor wires are secured.
Noise dampers are fitted to Fan Shroud.
The Fan Blade is in the correct position. Check with a ruler.
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